Today we got an early start, heading out of the room around 8:30 to pick up where we left off in our shrine-visiting. We headed back to Maruyama-koen to visit the Chion-in temple right when it opened at 9am. The temple is the headquarters of the Jodo sect of Buddhism, Japan's most popular form. After observing the humongous gate (which sent the gate's builder and his wife into such penury that they killed themselves) we visited several shrines on the premises, as well as two beautiful gardens. We also saw the largest bell in Japan, and got to observe a worship service taking place.
After the temple, we decided to head towards the theater where the geisha dancing was being held. Along the way, we stopped at several shops in the Gion district. We tried out some sweets, purchased postcards, and picked up some interesting food and drinks. At 11:30, we headed for the geisha dance, which, since we had purchased Special First Class tickets (that's right, suckers), included a tea ceremony with the geisha prior to the show. We entered a room where two geisha were sitting, were served a sweet bun and green tea, and got to keep the bun saucer as a souvenir. Afterwards, Katie and I headed to our seats and purchased a program. Fortunately, we were able to read about the various acts of the dance prior to it starting, so we had a good idea of what was happening on stage.
The dance itself was amazing. There were musicians on either side of the stage in their own booths, while the geisha dancing and acting came from side entrances as well as backstage. The kimonos were beautiful, the stage sets were intricate and brightly colored, the music was interesting and moving, and the choreography was fascinating. I believe my words after the second act were, "This is the greatest thing that has ever happened to me." That may have been a slight exaggeration, but only slight. (Katie and I remarked that we really chose the best time to come to Japan, because this dance, as well as many other activities happening while we're here, only happens in spring.) I am still thinking about the geisha dance, and how amazing and interesting the performance was.
After dropping off our stuff in our room, we headed to Kyoto station, where we had a ramen lunch before catching the train to Osaka. In Osaka, before we could do anything else, we headed to the Pokémon Store on the 13th floor of the Osaka station mall (I can't remember its actual name; oh well). That place is nuts. There was everything from Pikachu dish towels to magnetic Squirtle dolls (which we bought, by the way). We picked up some more souvenirs, then headed out to the aquarium in Tempozan.
This aquarium is considered one of the best in the world, and I have to agree. It's certainly one of the best I've ever been in. The whole aquarium covers several floors, and is laid out over a kilometer of walking from the top down. We started by checking out the sleeping river otters at the top level, which was above the water line. As we went lower and lower, we discovered several tanks that we walked around. Each little area offered snippets of information regarding an environment, a region, or a specific animal, so we were constantly given new info on the featured tanks. In addition, most of the aquarium featured a huge central tank teeming with life, and as we continued to wind around further and further down, we saw more and more of the creatures inside. It was like walking a Japanese garden, which I imagine was the point: every new turn gave us a different paradigm. We also had a very friendly seal in the seal tank, which we saw from underneath; it would just swim right to the edge of the glass, and look out at us. seemingly smiling contentedly. It always returned right to the same spot after getting some air. Too cute. At the end, Katie petted some rays and sharks in a shallow petting tank. We finished our time in Tempozan at the vending machines, where I got a very interesting electrolyte-replenishing beverage (more on that later) and she got some water.
Heading back to the station, we decided I needed to have my Osaka ramen experience before leaving. We had no idea how to find a ramen place, and the station at Osaka is mind-bogglingly huge. Eventually, I found myself staring at a food court sign, guidebook out, looking for the character for noodle anyway. A lady approached me and asked me in Japanese if I needed help. (I'm assuming this is what she said, anyway.) In my desperation, I just said, ramen. She nodded, looked at the sign, and then pointed me to the only ramen restaurant listed. It was like a sign from above. The ramen at this place was HEAVENLY. The broth was flavorful, spicy, and unlike any broth I've had before (I couldn't place the base, even!), the noodles were well-cooked, the pork was melt-level tender, the egg was creamy and yummy, and there was a sauce that I'd never seen before that added an extra kick which I loved. Osaka is well known for its ramen, and now I get it. I only wish I could go back.
After that perfection, we boarded the next express train back to Kyoto, caught a bus to the hotel, and cracked open a bag of taco-flavored Doritos. Tomorrow, we head to another shrine (to the gods of rice and sake) and to the old capital, Nara. I'm looking forward to a more relaxing day!
-B
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